A Pomerol Powerhouse

1998 Chateau Cantelauze
Pomerol, Bordeaux
$49.95
Jen’s Notes

This wine, named after the larks who sing in the vineyard in the morning, will get fans of aged Bordeaux singing too (especially at this price!). Being a Pomerol, this one is mostly Merlot (90%), with just a touch of Cabernet Franc (10%).

The color is an inky red and the nose evokes ripe, dark cherries, dirt and leather. It is also a touch smoky. On the palate, it becomes clear that this wine is not just about texture, although it certainly boasts the hallmark silkiness of wines from Pomerol. It is also dense, concentrated and has firm tannins. Rounding out the palate are decadent, juicy currant flavors, spiked with floral, leather and smoky notes. The finish is medium-length and the structure is superb. This Bordeaux is perfectly harmonious in every way.

As many of us Bordeaux geeks are fond of saying, this is no wimpy merlot. It has plenty of finesse, but there’s a powerhouse underneath. Drink now through 2010ish.