Tannin Management

Concha y Toro
Xplorador, Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
$3.52 (2 for 1 sale at BevMo)
Silver Oak 2001 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$59.99
Shane’s Notes

“Tannin Management” is one of the latest catch phrases in the wine industry. Tannin Management techniques revolve around extracting the harsh and bitter tannins while retaining the soft, chewy, mouth-filling tannins. A variety of methods are employed including ripening the seeds of the grapes, using a gentle cap sprinkle instead of blasting the cap and of course, the much vilified “micro-oxygenation.”*

Unfortunately, it is difficult to discover which wineries are employing which techniques, so it is difficult to judge the results. However, judging by the extreme velvety mouth-feel and lack of astringency in Silver Oak’s 2001 Alexander Valley offering, I would guess that Silver Oak is using every tannin management technique known to U.C. Davis. I will admit that I enjoy the mouth-feel and I certainly don’t miss the astringency, but I really miss the flavor. There is not any varietal flavor underneath the texture which is a serious flaw. I’ll continue to attend Siler Oak’s lavish release parties, but I will never again pay $60 for their wine. I suspect that the wine making techniques they employ to strip the wine of bad tannins also strips the wine of its flavor.

I am also guessing that Concha y Toro has a tannin management program, and they appear to be more successful at it than Silver Oak. Concha y Toro’s Xplorador Cabernet has a velvety mouth-feel, but it is not as dense as the Silver Oak. The varietal flavors underneath the texture are not complex but at least they exist. Jen thought the palate was dominated by cranberries with touches of white pepper and Rosemary ,while I thought it was dominated by violets. There were good (pun intended) tannins underneath, and it was a touch dry. This is a spectacular deal at $3.52 a bottle and still an amazing deal at $6 to $7 a bottle.

*San Francisco Chronicle, “Taming the Tannins,” by Janet Fletcher, February 20, 2003.