Thursday, June 22, 2006

Chablis

1998 Chablis Valmur, Albert Pic, Grand Cru
$43
Jen's Notes

Most Chardonnay nerds, myself included, agree that Chablis needs bottle age. At 8 years old, this one still showed good acidity, tempered by a slight roundness and good fruit. Flavors included zesty apple (probably Granny Smiths - 'wine flavor descriptor' being their only form suitable for consumption, in my opinion!) subtly highlighted with citrus. There is pronounced minerality underneath, and a long finish. A truly wonderful wine, and a good deal for Grand Cru Chablis.

NB: there is one hard and fast rule regarding Chablis, which I am obliged to pass on: Chablis are not made in America. The American whites that call themselves Chablis are plonk and bear no resemblance to the real thing. Jay McInerney, in his book Bacchus and Me, relates an amusing anecdote about this distinction.

There is also a semi-firm and relatively speedy rule regarding Chablis, or at least, one's first foray into it, which is that you should stick with the Grand and Premier Crus. There are, occasionally, some values to be found further down the ladder, but you'll want some experience and research under your belt before you go there.

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