A Dee Vine Tasting

1. 2004 Keller Westhofen Kirchspiel Kabinett, $23
2. 2004 Schloss Vollrads Kabinett, $22
3. 2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Spatlese, $29
4. 2004 Schloss Vollrads Auslese, 375 ml, $52
5. 2003 Max von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenbert Spatlese, $31
6. 2003 Reinhard and Beate Knebel Winninger Rottgen Auslese, 500 ml, $30
Shane’s Notes

This tasting was held at Dee Vine Wines located at Pier 19 in San Francisco. We paid $15 to taste 16 German Rieslings from the 2004 vintage and 2 from 2003. Dee Vine sets out the wine and lets you pour for yourself which makes for a very fun tasting. Here are some of the highlights:

1. From the Rheinhessen region, spritzy like a Mosel with the palate showing lemon and blood orange flavors with a slightly metallic taste. Very good.

2. From the Rheingau region, completely different than the Mosels we have been drinking, creamy instead of spritzy with a palate that is smooth and tangy. Dominant flavor is peach pie.

3. From the Pfalz region, one of the best of the tasting, very creamy, complex palate with flavors of peaches and lemon curd. Crisp acidity on the finish.

4. Best of the 2004’s that we tasted, probably 100% botrytized with a palate dominated by honeysuckle with enough acidity to hold it together. Tastes like a Riesling Sauternes.

5 and 6. These were both absolutely fantastic. The palate on these 2003’s is elegant and restrained with plenty of acidity for balance and aging.

This was hardly a representative sampling of the 2004 vintage – five wines were from Muller-Catoir, four from Keller, four from Erben von Beulwitz, and three from Schloss Vollrads. Heavyweight producers such as Gunderloch, Joh. Jos. Prum, and Dr. Loosen were all missing from the tasting. So, we will refrain from making any broad generalizations about the 2004 vintage. We will just say that most of the 2004 Rieslings at this tasting were flabby and disappointing.