Theise-ing Our Palates

Review of Seminar and Tasting by Ferry Plaza Wine Merchants and Terry Theise
Jen’s Notes

A couple of weeks ago, Shane and I attended this absolutely excellent seminar by importer Terry Thiese, featuring artisanal Champagnes and 2005 German wines (primarily Rieslings). The event was limited to 60 people, so practically the second the email from FPWM landed in my inbox, I was on the horn booking our reservation. I was so quick that the guy who answered the phone and only just seen the email as well.

We love our Rieslings, what can I tell you? And the opportunity to hear Terry live and in person was just too good to pass up. I found myself thinking of wine in new ways – more epic and slightly romantic than I ordinarily would; as if each wine was a person with something absolutely captivating (we hope) to tell me.

Terry is a witty and engaging speaker, and I think when he first stood up to speak felt that he had to shake us out of our school-room reticence. You see, we were seated in a big meeting room – plain, apart from the fabulous view of the bay - at the sort of stick-figure tables and chairs that reminded me of my classrooms in law school (except that they were covered in white tablecloths and had wine glasses set up). The two Champagnes had been poured, and no one had taken a sip.

Justifiably, Terry chided us, saying that once Champagne has been poured, we can drink it. Before taking his first sip, he said “let’s see if this shit’s any good.” Happily, it was better than good, and we all loosened up quite a bit after that.

All of the wines were impressive in their own way, but for us, there were some definite standouts, starting with the first Champagne:

Pierre Peters “Cuvee Reservee” Grand Cru , Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil
45.00

Both Champagnes (the other was Billiot Brut Rose, Ambonnay) were “grower” Champagnes, meaning that the same person grew the grapes and vinted and bottled the wines. This is rather uncommon for Champagne and, even more impressively, the Peters is also 100% grand cru vineyards.

The wine showed some classic Chardonnay character (being a Blanc de Blancs…) as well as surprising depth and smokiness. It was perfectly balanced: while crisp, it was not too acidic, nor did the crispness and minerality outweigh the creamy banana fruit that we detected. The flavors were full and ripe. We loved it, and had never tasted anything like it before. Of all the wines we tasted, it was the one we felt we had to buy. I am sure that some of the others will find their way to our wine rack as well.

Riesling Kabinett:

2005 Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
25.00

We are both fans of Mosel Rieslings. Shane, in particular, prefers their texture and richness to many of the other areas in which Riesling is grown. This one was excellent, and sweeter/richer than you would ordinarily expect from a Kabinett. Its impression was more of weight than of particular flavors: it was concentrated and honeyed, with a floral palate.

2005 Jost Bacharacher Hahn, Mittelrhein
25.00

Legally, this could have been an Auslese (that is, two grades sweeter than a Kabinett). It was lovely. Though concentrated and sweet, there was a pronounced zest to it and steeliness on the finish. It was rich with persistent flavors, and really wonderful to drink.

Riesling Spatlese:

2005 Hermann Donnhoff Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg, Nahe
50.00

A contender for best of tasting, this wine was a study in contrasts: surprisingly bright aromas and while gorgeously sweet, it had a lightness and elegance as well. It boasted juicy pineapple flavors that balanced nicely against the minerality underneath.

Riesling Auslese:

2005 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenurh Auslese **, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
57.00

Continuing the theme, this Auslese was actually almost sweet enough to be a Beerenauslese. Its intensely floral perfume was echoed beautifully on the palate. Though appropriately sweet and rich, there is firm minerality underneath, which was most expressive on a lingering finish.

Terry said a couple of things that we found interesting. He advised that it was useful to go back and forth among the wines that were poured. I know I tend to slavishly follow the order set out on the tasting sheet, drinking all of wine 1 before moving on to wine 2, and so forth. It truly never occurred to me to do this, so I experimented with some of the wines and noted that some of the contrasts seemed more pronounced – particularly between the two Auslesen featured in the tasting. While the Selbach-Oster, discussed above, was quite sweet and rich, the other one (by Meulenhof) had a refreshing zest to it that was completely different, but all the more delightful contrasted against the S-O.

Terry also happened to say something that Shane has always suggested from the very beginning of our wine experiences together, which is that he gets a better sense of a wine after the first glass. So, when Terry said (I am paraphrasing here) that a wine tells you its meaning at the end of the bottle, not at the beginning. The more wine I drink, the more I agree with Shane and Terry. I can go back and forth in tasting, and now I won’t rush a wine in to telling me its message in the first swirls and sips.